Happy Friday!
Thanks so much for all the comments on my Curlicute cardigan! ♥ That pattern was from 1940, which I'm going to use as a nice segue into today's post. Earlier this month I shared with you some scans from a small collection of vintage Finnish knitting booklets that a Finnish reader was gracious enough to send me. That post was from 1952, and this one is from 1942. I know I said I'd scan 1951 but the results weren't as nice, so we're jumping back to the 40s instead.
The really interesting thing about this publication is all the truly amazing drawings! It's the only vintage knitting resource I have that actually has more drawings than photos. Some of the knitting was photographed in it, but more often than not, just drawings were shown. I've kept the original color in the scans... I don't mind seeing the actual age of the old paper.
Isn't the cover fantastic?? A matching parasol, one-piece swim or play suit and purse. Yes please!
And aren't these swim suits just divine as well? I love this spread. Of course, I'll have to rely on one of my Finnish readers to explain exactly what this ad was doing in a knitting publication. lol
Here's an example of a drawing and the final sweater, too. I'm trying not to be scared off by the severe expression of the platinum blond. ;)
Lots more stripes were featured, too. (Don't you think the woman on the right looks a bit like Solanah?)
I love the entire outfit on the right below. I'll take those shoes too, thanks.
And more scenes at the beach. As we sit here with more snow on the ground, this is looking mighty nice right about now!
Don't you wish you could buy these purse kits? Check out the one with the sailor outfits. I want to make that!
But my favorite is a two-page spread of dresses. I had to piece it together, so click on it if you'd to see it a little larger! Aren't they amazing? Definitely inspiration-worthy for Sew for Victory, wouldn't you say?
Hope you've enjoyed this batch. I was so happy to hear from several Finnish readers who enjoyed the last post, so I've tried to keep more of the text in this batch. :)
Have a great weekend!
Showing posts with label vintage knitting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage knitting. Show all posts
Friday, February 22, 2013
Monday, February 18, 2013
My Curlicute cardigan (and free vintage pattern)
My latest knit is a cardigan from a 1940 pattern and I'm kind of in love with it!
The pattern name is Curlicute. Which is adorable, but also a play on words for the original yarn the pattern recommended, Bucilla Curlicue, a mohair and wool blend.
Obviously I changed it to long sleeves, because a short-sleeved worsted weight cardigan just makes no sense where I live.
I changed the shape of the front of the cardigan to be a gradual v-neck. I like how it looks with collared blouses on my Bestway stranded cardigan, so I did the same thing. Instead of crocheting the button band like in the pattern, I knit it separately. I have several 40s patterns with crocheted bands and I admit it's not my favorite look. I thought I'd try it on this one but as I suspected didn't really like it, so I swapped it for a knitted band style that was also popular in 40s patterns. The band itself is just (k1, p1) over 8 stitches, with the first stitch slipped purlwise on the right side for a nice smooth edge.
My trick to getting the band the perfect length: I knit about 3/4 of it, sew most of it onto the cardigan, then eyeball it and sew an inch or two at a time as I finish knitting it. (Make sure to stretch it slightly as you sew it so it doesn't look floppy.)
The pattern gauge is 3.5 stitches per inch, but I knit it at 4.5 spi and then blocked it aggressively to open up the ribbed stitch pattern. If you like the traveling ribs more pronounced you could block it lighter. I wanted a trim look so I knit it with about 2 inches of negative ease at my bust. (I don't recommend this if you plan to wear it buttoned up a lot, or you'll get gaping over your girls!)
I always wet block my knitted garments. I knew from swatching that my gauge would change a lot after blocking, even if during knitting it looked like I was knitting it for one of my 7-year-old nieces.
I like how the ribs travel across the back and the sleeves although the sea of red was blinding on camera.
Thanks to Rochelle for helping me choose buttons. These are translucent red vintage buttons with rhinestones in the center. Love them!
I have desperately needed a well-fitting, basic red cardigan forever. So glad to cross this off my list because I already know it goes with eeeeverything!
The pattern name is Curlicute. Which is adorable, but also a play on words for the original yarn the pattern recommended, Bucilla Curlicue, a mohair and wool blend.
Obviously I changed it to long sleeves, because a short-sleeved worsted weight cardigan just makes no sense where I live.
I changed the shape of the front of the cardigan to be a gradual v-neck. I like how it looks with collared blouses on my Bestway stranded cardigan, so I did the same thing. Instead of crocheting the button band like in the pattern, I knit it separately. I have several 40s patterns with crocheted bands and I admit it's not my favorite look. I thought I'd try it on this one but as I suspected didn't really like it, so I swapped it for a knitted band style that was also popular in 40s patterns. The band itself is just (k1, p1) over 8 stitches, with the first stitch slipped purlwise on the right side for a nice smooth edge.
My trick to getting the band the perfect length: I knit about 3/4 of it, sew most of it onto the cardigan, then eyeball it and sew an inch or two at a time as I finish knitting it. (Make sure to stretch it slightly as you sew it so it doesn't look floppy.)
The pattern gauge is 3.5 stitches per inch, but I knit it at 4.5 spi and then blocked it aggressively to open up the ribbed stitch pattern. If you like the traveling ribs more pronounced you could block it lighter. I wanted a trim look so I knit it with about 2 inches of negative ease at my bust. (I don't recommend this if you plan to wear it buttoned up a lot, or you'll get gaping over your girls!)
I always wet block my knitted garments. I knew from swatching that my gauge would change a lot after blocking, even if during knitting it looked like I was knitting it for one of my 7-year-old nieces.
I like how the ribs travel across the back and the sleeves although the sea of red was blinding on camera.
Thanks to Rochelle for helping me choose buttons. These are translucent red vintage buttons with rhinestones in the center. Love them!
I have desperately needed a well-fitting, basic red cardigan forever. So glad to cross this off my list because I already know it goes with eeeeverything!
outfit details
30s trousers: made by me
blouse: Time Machine Vintage
earrings & vintage bracelet: gifts from my mom
Interested in knitting this cardigan yourself? Download the free pattern from 1940!
Friday, February 1, 2013
1952 inspiration: Finnish knitting patterns
I'm excited to share something I've been meaning to for oh, months now! I've been extra busy at work in the last week so I'm frightfully behind in all online realms, but I'm pleased that's finally letting up and I can share this with you tonight.
I've been extremely fortunate that a few blog readers have kindly shared vintage knitting patterns with me. Many months ago I was contacted by one such reader in Helsinki, Finland, who graciously sent me several vintage knitting booklets in Finnish. Now of course I don't read Finnish, but I'm happy to look for inspiration in all kinds of resources. So I'm very grateful to her for sending them across the world to me!
Over the next week or two I'm going to do a separate post on a few of the best images from the booklets, by year. I've cleaned up some images where needed, and have included the text in a few of them because I think it's interesting.
Expect to see 1951, 1942 and 1938. But today we'll start with 1952. The booklet opens with the advice not to buy yarn for the sole reason that it's cheap, because you'll be unhappy with the results. (Thanks to Google Translate for that.)
I love the cover styling, with the green felt gloves, slightly risqué neckline and matching scarf laying on the checkered table... the original owner wrote her name in the corner, too. I love seeing old hand writing.
You can definitely see a 40s influence still in some of the designs, but the emergence of 50s style as well. Interesting that the below pullover is finished with a zipper across the left shoulder.
Below is a crocheted jacket... is that a waistline or what.
No surprise I adore this stranded twinset! The colorwork was charted, so I scanned all 3 pages from the pattern in case you'd like to replicate it yourself.
Download: 1952 Finnish stranded twin set, including chart (pdf)
Check out this batwing cardigan with the stripes and collar. And look at those cuffs! So sharp.
I may be a little obsessed with these amazing father and son cardigans...
Check out the stitch pattern. It was written out, and I think if you were feeling patient you could probably translate it, so I've included the pattern repeat below. Looks like the chevrons are shaped between knit and purl sections, with moss stitch between.
Update! Rachel found the same stitch pattern in English, and Kittee discovered it's also indexed on Ravelry. Thanks for the sleuthing!
The sweater below is nice, but I'm way more interested in her head scarf and amazing plaid trousers!
A nice basic pullover...
And a classic cardigan, perfect to pair with a collared blouse. The lace pattern looks extremely similar to the stitch pattern in my yellow gloves, knit from this vintage pattern. (I'm not sure the exact source of that particular version of the pattern, but the same one shows up in a 1953 knitting booklet I have. Must have been popular in the early 50s.)
And last but not least, a cardigan that buckles at the sleeve cuffs and neck...
From Helsinki to the United States, from 1952 to 2013. The Internet is a wonderful place, isn't it? I hope you've enjoyed these. Whether you knit or not, they're great for inspiration! Do you have a favorite?
I've been extremely fortunate that a few blog readers have kindly shared vintage knitting patterns with me. Many months ago I was contacted by one such reader in Helsinki, Finland, who graciously sent me several vintage knitting booklets in Finnish. Now of course I don't read Finnish, but I'm happy to look for inspiration in all kinds of resources. So I'm very grateful to her for sending them across the world to me!
Over the next week or two I'm going to do a separate post on a few of the best images from the booklets, by year. I've cleaned up some images where needed, and have included the text in a few of them because I think it's interesting.
Expect to see 1951, 1942 and 1938. But today we'll start with 1952. The booklet opens with the advice not to buy yarn for the sole reason that it's cheap, because you'll be unhappy with the results. (Thanks to Google Translate for that.)
I love the cover styling, with the green felt gloves, slightly risqué neckline and matching scarf laying on the checkered table... the original owner wrote her name in the corner, too. I love seeing old hand writing.
You can definitely see a 40s influence still in some of the designs, but the emergence of 50s style as well. Interesting that the below pullover is finished with a zipper across the left shoulder.
Below is a crocheted jacket... is that a waistline or what.
No surprise I adore this stranded twinset! The colorwork was charted, so I scanned all 3 pages from the pattern in case you'd like to replicate it yourself.
Download: 1952 Finnish stranded twin set, including chart (pdf)
Check out this batwing cardigan with the stripes and collar. And look at those cuffs! So sharp.
I may be a little obsessed with these amazing father and son cardigans...
Check out the stitch pattern. It was written out, and I think if you were feeling patient you could probably translate it, so I've included the pattern repeat below. Looks like the chevrons are shaped between knit and purl sections, with moss stitch between.
Update! Rachel found the same stitch pattern in English, and Kittee discovered it's also indexed on Ravelry. Thanks for the sleuthing!
The sweater below is nice, but I'm way more interested in her head scarf and amazing plaid trousers!
A nice basic pullover...
And a classic cardigan, perfect to pair with a collared blouse. The lace pattern looks extremely similar to the stitch pattern in my yellow gloves, knit from this vintage pattern. (I'm not sure the exact source of that particular version of the pattern, but the same one shows up in a 1953 knitting booklet I have. Must have been popular in the early 50s.)
And last but not least, a cardigan that buckles at the sleeve cuffs and neck...
From Helsinki to the United States, from 1952 to 2013. The Internet is a wonderful place, isn't it? I hope you've enjoyed these. Whether you knit or not, they're great for inspiration! Do you have a favorite?
Friday, August 10, 2012
Knit it in Flag Colors - finished Ravellenic Games project
Well hello my friends! I know, it's been awhile! I expected to share with you my progress on my project during the Ravellenic Games, Ravelry's knitting version of the Olympics that coincide with the Olympics. However, not only have I been caught up in watching the Olympics (London, you're doing an awesome job!), I had to change my project. I started off with fair isle legwarmers for autumn, but then couldn't watch the coverage while looking at my colorwork chart, so I pulled out a long-languishing work-in-progress sweater that I hadn't touched since winter of 2011. I had the body knitted but no sleeves and no collar, so in the last week and a half I finished the sweater and crossed the finish line!
It's a vintage pattern from Australian Women's Weekly in 1942, called Knit it in Flag Colors. And though initially intended for a different flag, this project couldn't be more appropriate for the London Olympics, don't you think? It's a free pattern, available here.
Here's the original sweater:
And now for mine, knit in fingering weight yarn and a slightly looser-than-normal gauge of 6.5 spi. The body is shaped with paired increases from the ribbing to the armholes, like an inverted trapezoid (which I talked about last February in the Briar Rose KAL). My Ravelry project page is here.
Obviously, I made a few changed, including flip-flopping the red and the white (my white is actually un-dyed yarn, but looks very bright next to the blue). One fortunate occurrence of not knitting on this for a year and a half is that when I picked it back up, I realized I was trying to decide what to do about the sleeves when I last worked on it. This time around I opted for long sleeves since I almost never wear my short-sleeved knits. I was talking to Liz from zilredloh.com last week when I met up with her (incidentally, I adore her and can't believe it's taken this long for us to meet!!), and we commiserated with one another about this. So, long sleeves it was. (Which I knit slightly too loose at the upper arm, oops.)
I opted to carry the stripe and color changes across the sleeve cap instead of knitting the intarsia stripes up the sleeves like the original pattern. To do this for a highly patterned project, the sleeve cap has the be the same number of rows from the armhole to the cast off as the body is from the armhole to the shoulder. That means the sleeve cap is going to have a bit more ease in it, which worked perfectly if you're into 1940s styles, because you can just gather that bit of excess up into a beautiful gathered sleeve cap. Of course that wasn't imperative for this project since the last color change was further down my arm, but I still used the same technique.
Another alteration I made was the collar. Instead of knitting two pieces flat and then seaming them to the neckline, I simply picked up stitches (along the inside, since the collar rolls out) and knit it out from there. Instead of folding under the edges and hemming it, I used ribbing as the border and bound off very loosely. When blocking, I had to roll the collar exactly the way I wanted it to lay so that the white from the inside didn't show at the roll line. I also took a little stitch at the very center front to get the two halves to lay perfectly butt up against one another.
I fretted about the collar color and solicited advice from friends on my Ravelry teams, and in the end I'm really glad I went with red. Blue (which I started with) was too flag looking, and white would have faded into the background.
The back has a little surprise! (Other than my messy hair.)
A four button placket! Now, remembering that I knit the body a year and a half ago, when I went to put it all together I realized my top two buttonholes were slightly closer together than the others, and I have no clue why I would have done that (unless it was on accident). But the top button is mostly hidden by the collar, so I don't really care.
I used a hidden snap closure at the upper edge of the band so that it didn't pull open slightly from the weight of the collar on the left side. Per the pattern, I used a double crochet stitch the edge the buttonband. These are cute little moonglow buttons from my vintage button stash. I'm so glad I went with red buttons! I love the little 'pop'.
Overall, I'm very satisfied with this pullover! It's not the most exciting thing in the world, but I think it will work nicely for autumn. (Crazily, it is cool enough here today that when I took photos, I actually wasn't dying from heat like I would have been any other day this summer!)
I hope to get back to more regular blogging soon. I've been having a bit of style ennui which has translated into blogging ennui. I know I've completely failed with keeping up on my Made and Making posts, and I've wanted to post again for the Vintage Knitting College series for ages and haven't pulled that together yet either. Sorry! I've also been really on a knitting kick, which means no sewing has happened. It all just means I haven't had much of anything to share.
Anyway, I do hope you're doing well and enjoy my latest knit!
It's a vintage pattern from Australian Women's Weekly in 1942, called Knit it in Flag Colors. And though initially intended for a different flag, this project couldn't be more appropriate for the London Olympics, don't you think? It's a free pattern, available here.
Here's the original sweater:
And now for mine, knit in fingering weight yarn and a slightly looser-than-normal gauge of 6.5 spi. The body is shaped with paired increases from the ribbing to the armholes, like an inverted trapezoid (which I talked about last February in the Briar Rose KAL). My Ravelry project page is here.
Obviously, I made a few changed, including flip-flopping the red and the white (my white is actually un-dyed yarn, but looks very bright next to the blue). One fortunate occurrence of not knitting on this for a year and a half is that when I picked it back up, I realized I was trying to decide what to do about the sleeves when I last worked on it. This time around I opted for long sleeves since I almost never wear my short-sleeved knits. I was talking to Liz from zilredloh.com last week when I met up with her (incidentally, I adore her and can't believe it's taken this long for us to meet!!), and we commiserated with one another about this. So, long sleeves it was. (Which I knit slightly too loose at the upper arm, oops.)
I opted to carry the stripe and color changes across the sleeve cap instead of knitting the intarsia stripes up the sleeves like the original pattern. To do this for a highly patterned project, the sleeve cap has the be the same number of rows from the armhole to the cast off as the body is from the armhole to the shoulder. That means the sleeve cap is going to have a bit more ease in it, which worked perfectly if you're into 1940s styles, because you can just gather that bit of excess up into a beautiful gathered sleeve cap. Of course that wasn't imperative for this project since the last color change was further down my arm, but I still used the same technique.
Another alteration I made was the collar. Instead of knitting two pieces flat and then seaming them to the neckline, I simply picked up stitches (along the inside, since the collar rolls out) and knit it out from there. Instead of folding under the edges and hemming it, I used ribbing as the border and bound off very loosely. When blocking, I had to roll the collar exactly the way I wanted it to lay so that the white from the inside didn't show at the roll line. I also took a little stitch at the very center front to get the two halves to lay perfectly butt up against one another.
I fretted about the collar color and solicited advice from friends on my Ravelry teams, and in the end I'm really glad I went with red. Blue (which I started with) was too flag looking, and white would have faded into the background.
The back has a little surprise! (Other than my messy hair.)
A four button placket! Now, remembering that I knit the body a year and a half ago, when I went to put it all together I realized my top two buttonholes were slightly closer together than the others, and I have no clue why I would have done that (unless it was on accident). But the top button is mostly hidden by the collar, so I don't really care.
I used a hidden snap closure at the upper edge of the band so that it didn't pull open slightly from the weight of the collar on the left side. Per the pattern, I used a double crochet stitch the edge the buttonband. These are cute little moonglow buttons from my vintage button stash. I'm so glad I went with red buttons! I love the little 'pop'.
Overall, I'm very satisfied with this pullover! It's not the most exciting thing in the world, but I think it will work nicely for autumn. (Crazily, it is cool enough here today that when I took photos, I actually wasn't dying from heat like I would have been any other day this summer!)
I hope to get back to more regular blogging soon. I've been having a bit of style ennui which has translated into blogging ennui. I know I've completely failed with keeping up on my Made and Making posts, and I've wanted to post again for the Vintage Knitting College series for ages and haven't pulled that together yet either. Sorry! I've also been really on a knitting kick, which means no sewing has happened. It all just means I haven't had much of anything to share.
Anyway, I do hope you're doing well and enjoy my latest knit!
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Coronation Knits giveaway & interview with Susan Crawford!
Hello all! Sorry things have been so quiet on my end, as I mentioned in my last post my dad is in town visiting. He's wrapping up his visit soon and then my schedule will be a bit more normal... well, until my mom and step-dad come for a visit next week, ha ha! And after that it will be more normal. ;) In the meantime, thanks so much for all your wonderful comments on my apple picking dress!
As I announced early in June, I'm participating in the Coronation Knits blog tour for Susan Crawford's latest vintage knitting book, published this summer to correspond with the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. And today we've reached my spot in the tour. So sit back, grab a cup of tea, and enjoy! There's some knitting blathering by me, a wonderful interview with Susan, and a giveaway at the end!
I admit: I fully intended to knit a lovely sweater from the book and review the pattern, in time for this post. Didn't even come close. I was already giving myself a tight deadline, but then add in a wilting heat wave and having my dad in town, and I just had no desire or time to knit, unfortunately! I'm disappointed I couldn't include my finished pullover in this blog tour post, so alas, you'll just have to wait to see my knitting. But I can at least tell you what I'm working on (albeit slowly). It's the Lion and the Unicorn pullover, with bat wing sleeves and an intarsia rendition of the lion and unicorn from the royal coat of arms of England. Isn't it stunning? I'm just swapping the blue for red.
The original version of this pullover was featured in the 1953 special Coronation issue of Stitchcraft! Susan modernized the construction, which is ingenious—knit in one piece from the front bottom up, casting on for the sleeves outwards, knitting on up to the short-row shaped shoulders and neckline, then down the back to the bottom. It's been fun seeing the unusual shape unfold!
Of course, you know I'm a sucker for colorwork, and the next pattern I'm dying to knit is the Coronation Sleeveless Pullover. There are instructions to knit it in the round (my preference for stranded knitting as I can fly along at it) and knit it flat and seam the pieces (more original to most published patterns at the time). I love, love, love the crown motif! This was designed by Susan in the style of a 40s/50s men's pullover, but I think the design could easily transition into a woman's version, or be turned into a marvelous long-sleeved pullover or cardigan!
Hmmm... it occurs to me I also have a 40s-inspired version of the Red Queen fair isle pullover (Ravelry link) on the needles, along with the Unicorn and Lion pullover, and I'm plotting that sleeveless pullover... I guess I've just been in a royal mood!
I was delighted to have the opportunity to interview Susan, as she is one of my all-time favorite knitwear designers. I hope you'll enjoy her responses as much as I have!
Would you like to win your own copy of Coronation Knits? Here's your chance!
The next blogger up on the tour is the talented Tom of Holland, on July 14th, so be sure to check it out. Tom knit the gorgeous stole featured on the cover!
As I announced early in June, I'm participating in the Coronation Knits blog tour for Susan Crawford's latest vintage knitting book, published this summer to correspond with the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. And today we've reached my spot in the tour. So sit back, grab a cup of tea, and enjoy! There's some knitting blathering by me, a wonderful interview with Susan, and a giveaway at the end!
♥ ♔ ♥
I admit: I fully intended to knit a lovely sweater from the book and review the pattern, in time for this post. Didn't even come close. I was already giving myself a tight deadline, but then add in a wilting heat wave and having my dad in town, and I just had no desire or time to knit, unfortunately! I'm disappointed I couldn't include my finished pullover in this blog tour post, so alas, you'll just have to wait to see my knitting. But I can at least tell you what I'm working on (albeit slowly). It's the Lion and the Unicorn pullover, with bat wing sleeves and an intarsia rendition of the lion and unicorn from the royal coat of arms of England. Isn't it stunning? I'm just swapping the blue for red.
![]() |
Copyright Susan Crawford |
The original version of this pullover was featured in the 1953 special Coronation issue of Stitchcraft! Susan modernized the construction, which is ingenious—knit in one piece from the front bottom up, casting on for the sleeves outwards, knitting on up to the short-row shaped shoulders and neckline, then down the back to the bottom. It's been fun seeing the unusual shape unfold!
![]() |
Copyright Susan Crawford |
Of course, you know I'm a sucker for colorwork, and the next pattern I'm dying to knit is the Coronation Sleeveless Pullover. There are instructions to knit it in the round (my preference for stranded knitting as I can fly along at it) and knit it flat and seam the pieces (more original to most published patterns at the time). I love, love, love the crown motif! This was designed by Susan in the style of a 40s/50s men's pullover, but I think the design could easily transition into a woman's version, or be turned into a marvelous long-sleeved pullover or cardigan!
![]() |
Copyright Susan Crawford |
Hmmm... it occurs to me I also have a 40s-inspired version of the Red Queen fair isle pullover (Ravelry link) on the needles, along with the Unicorn and Lion pullover, and I'm plotting that sleeveless pullover... I guess I've just been in a royal mood!

I was delighted to have the opportunity to interview Susan, as she is one of my all-time favorite knitwear designers. I hope you'll enjoy her responses as much as I have!
Q. I know Coronation Knits was partially inspired by your mother's interest in Queen Elizabeth's and her sister Margaret's early fashions. When you were putting this book together, was there one or two patterns in particular that really spoke to you as something the young Queen would have loved?
A. I think the young Queen Elizabeth would probably have worn the 'Princess Twinset' in her private time, in fact, I like to think its the sort of pattern she would probably have knitted! I think she would also have liked to have worn 'Amies' on a slightly more formal occasion.
|
|
Copyright Susan Crawford
Q. Do you have a favorite pattern in Coronation Knits (to wear, to design, the finished design, etc). Why does it stand out?
A. Ooh that's a tricky one. I love all the designs in the book for all different reasons. But if I was to choose a favourite pattern to fill each of the categories you mention I think I would choose 'Diamonds are Forever' to wear as it is the jumper I always wanted to design for myself. Its the perfect combination of the slightly more casual feel of the 1950s whilst still offering a well fitting and shapely garment. As a project to design I’m going to pick Crowning Glory as my favourite although this one really is a close run competition. But I’m going with this beret because of the perfect mixing of complexity of lace crown pattern with the simple beret construction which leaves you free when knitting to focus on the lace stitches. Again which would be my favourite finished design is also a very difficult one to choose but having had the opportunity to wear it will say the Princess Twinset Jumper. I love the front panel on the decolletage. It is so incredibly flattering, framing the face and directing the eyes upwards just as original 30s and 40s handknits did.
|
|
Copyright Susan Crawford
Q. Your books have such a wealth of historical information, knitting tips, not to mention the wonderful designs. Not just the Stitch in Time volumes, but your smaller publications as well like Coronation Knits and Vintage Gifts to Knit. It seems like there's a useful tip or fact everywhere I look. What inspires you to create such invaluable knitting resources?
A. I’ve always hoped that my books would be more than pattern books, although that is obviously their primary purpose. But I wanted to share the things I had learnt from working with vintage patterns over the years along with tips I had been given by my grandmothers, by other knitters I have talked to over the years and from the vintage magazines themselves. Also I am obsessed by the interaction of fashion and social history and writing these knitting books gives me the perfect excuse to talk about the periods the designs are from or are representative of and place them in their cultural and social setting. I’m very proud that people buy my books not just for the knitting patterns but also for the historical content and the authentic styling.
Q. When you're designing (or re-constructing) a vintage pattern, what makes the design process unique from modern patterns?
A. When I’m designing a vintage inspired pattern the design process isn’t particularly dissimilar than if I was designing a non-vintage inspired design. Where the differences really come in are when I am reconstructing or writing a pattern from a vintage pattern or garment. Often the construction is done in several separate pieces and is nearly always written for only one size. That one size is usually 30-32 inch chest and for a height of about 5 foot 2 inches. The language and terminology can often be quite differnet and sometimes abbreviations which now mean one thing have been used to represent something else. If I was writing a pattern from scratch I would choose my yarn, do a swatch and find out what tension I’m working to. The pattern would then be written based on that tension. With a vintage pattern, I swatch with different yarns and different needles until I can find a combination that gives me a tension as close to the original pattern as possible. I then knit a sample from the original pattern so that the sizing can be determined and any errors or flaws in the design can be clearly identified. Its not until this original pattern has been finalized that I then ‘grade’ the pattern. This means I then do the maths to add as many additional sizes to the pattern as the pattern will allow. Many vintage patterns use beautiful stitch patterns with large pattern repeats which can make it very difficult to introduce too many sizes without making huge leaps between sizes. It is also very important to me to keep the same shaping and fit for each size as in the original and a lot of work has to go into the sizing to ensure that each subsequent size fits as well as possible. One of the biggest issues with the fit of vintage patterns is shoulders. They need to end in just the right place on the body for any vintage knit to still have an authentic look to it. Our shoulders however do not usually increase by the same number of inches as our busts tend to grow, so this area of any vintage re-write has to be done with a significant amount of care. Without a doubt re-working an original vintage pattern usually means much more work than creating a design from scratch, but there is a feeling of great satisfaction when you can make a really tricky pattern that was never intended for more than that one size, to work in 6 or 7 sizes - including mine!
Q. Is there one decade that you love the most in knitwear fashion, and why?
A. That's a real toughy. Depending on my mood I veer between the 30s and the 40s, although my personal body shape suits the 40s/50s best. There is something about the total freedom of expression in the amazing designs of the 1930s that can’t be beaten, but I adore the creativity during the early 1940s de-spite there being so many restrictions being placed on design. So I don’t think I can do it be honest. I will have to hover between the 30s and the 40s as I love them both so much.
Q. I practically jumped out of my seat with excitement when I read that one of your next projects is an upcoming book on vintage Shetland knits. What drew you to the knitting traditions of Shetland?
A. I think if you enjoy knitting from vintage patterns the chances are you have done some colour work knitting. I have loved doing stranded and intarsia knitting since I was a teenager so have long been interested in Shetland knitting. Add to that the joys of using Shetland wool for colour work and you have a match made in heaven. However, I had always been a little disappointed by what I found in ‘traditional’ Fair Isle pattern books. They didn’t seem to reflect what I saw in magazines of the 1920s onwards or in knitting patterns I had in my collection also from the first half of the twentieth century. I have been visiting Shetland for about the last four years and have got to know the islands quite well. I have also spent alot of my time there visiting the museum and studying the garments on display. All of which have so much style and shape and individuality and seem so different to the ‘norm’. So over two years ago now I started working with the Museum on identifying a number of items from their archive that represented what Shetland knitting was really about between the 1920s and the 1950s. None of these garments have written patterns. So I have been creating patterns from the garments themselves and am now up to the point of beginning to knit the samples. As a a keen social historian I couldn’t leave it at that and have also researched each piece to find out more about the knitter behind each garment and these stories will also be in the book. Its proving quite a lengthy project but I hope a very worthwhile one.
Q. Last but not least, why does vintage inspire you?
A. I have been fascinated by vintage since I was about 15 years of age and didn’t actually even realize at this point that I was. I would sit and watch old films with my grandmother soaking up all the beautiful costumes and wanting to dress in the same way. My two grandmother’s taught me to knit, sew, crochet and embroider using patterns they had gathered over the years and most of these were already very old, so again without even knowing it, I was already interpreting vintage patterns. As time passed it also became about the history behind the clothes and the stories behind something as simple as a knitting pattern and I think that this is what has continued to fuel my interest. I think there is so much to learn from both original vintage garments and vintage knitting and sewing patterns about fit, shaping, small details that turn a garment into something very special, the use of pattern to distract from less flattering parts of the body and draw attention to the right bits. The beautiful fabrics used in original vintage garments are almost impossible to replicate but the finishing touches suggested in patterns such as embroidery, hand made buttons and facings enable us all to have a ‘couture’ vintage wardrobe at the fraction of the cost. As both a knitter and a dressmaker I have always liked things to be well made and its only really in vintage or hand made that you can be guaranteed of this.
Its also worth remembering that when I first began wearing vintage in the late 1980s it was considered a really odd thing to do, in fact, non-conforming was not encouraged at all. I can even remember acquaintances of my parents crossing the road to avoid me, tutting and shaking their heads as they did so! I think we now find ourselves in a great place where we can basically dress however we like without (too much) criticism and in many ways the huge popularity of vintage has helped this happen. And when an 80 year old great grandmother and a 20 year old student both want to knit one of my patterns I feel all that 1980s angst and pain was worthwhile!

Would you like to win your own copy of Coronation Knits? Here's your chance!
- Be a follower of this blog, anywhere on the planet.
- Leave a comment on this post.
- Want an extra entry? Post about this giveaway on your blog, Twitter, or Facebook. Just post a separate comment on this post with a link to where you mentioned it so you get counted twice.
- Don't forget to leave a way to contact you if your blog or profile doesn't have your email address.
The next blogger up on the tour is the talented Tom of Holland, on July 14th, so be sure to check it out. Tom knit the gorgeous stole featured on the cover!
June 12th More Yarn Will Do The Trick - Jean MossHope you've enjoyed this stop on the blog tour, and thanks so much to Susan Crawford for asking me to participate! Now, on with the coronation knitting!
June 16th JenACKnitwear - Jen Arnall Culliford
June 18th The Icelandic Knitter - Helene Magnusson
June 20th Knitting Institute - Knitting Magazine
June 24th Ingrid Murnane Investigates - Ingrid Murnane
June 28th Domestic Soundscape - Felicity Ford
June 29th Sheep To Shawl - Donna Druchunas
July 7th Fourth Edition - Karie
July 2nd The Making Spot - Simply Knitting
July 6th rock+purl - Ruth Garcia-Alcantud
July 10th By gum, by golly! - Tasha (me!)
July 14th tomofholland - Tom Van Deijnen
July 18th Woolly Wormhead - Woolly
July 22nd Crinoline Robot - Mim
July 25th Sexyknitter.com - Sarah Wilson
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)